THE SERUM SUPER SANDWICH METHOD (My Tretinion journey)
Updated: Jul 7
This is my personal journey about using Tretinoin AKA Retin-A , (a form of retinoid) on my skin. It has, at times , been both a little scary and confusing- in fact I nearly threw in the towel after a few unnerving days. I did after a few trials and errors find a way to get it to work for me and so I’ve put together some of my personal experience and tips that I have learned along the way. I hope this will help others to minimise irritation such as dryness and redness.
Spoiler alert: Incorporating SuperNaturals Serum Immortelle is the game changer
RETINOL vs TRETINOIN
Firstly, we need to understand what Tretinoin is and why we would want to use it. Tretinoin (Retina-A) and retinol are both part of the same group of compounds derived from Vitamin A.
The main difference is the concentration; While retinol takes two steps to be converted into retinoic acid, tretinoin is already active and does not need to be converted on the skin
This means it is more readily absorbed and can have deeper results, but along with that is a higher risk of redness and peeling, especially for sensitive skin. In South Africa, tretinoin is classified as a scheduled substance, and requires a prescription. It's generally available in three standard strengths: a mild 0.025% concentration typically recommended for beginners or sensitive skin (THIS IS WHAT I STARTED WITH HERE), a mid-range 0.05% strength for moderate acne and visible signs of ageing, and a potent 0.1% formulation reserved for resilient skin or more severe cosmetic concerns.
WHO SHOULD USE TRETINOIN AND WHY?
Tretinion is used for a number of reasons, including treating acne, psoriasis, fading hyperpigmentation and reducing signs of photoaging and wrinkles
All of us are exposed to environmental stressors and from as early as our twenties our skin naturally loses collagen and elastin, the building blocks give our skin its elasticity and plumpness.
The signs of damage are visible in uneven texture and tone, lines, wrinkles and loss of firmness and elasticity so its
It’s become quite common for people to start applying various forms of retinol as a preventative measure in their mid-twenties before those fine lines begin forming.
How does it work?
Simply put, it works by increasing cell turnover and removing dead skin cells from the surface layer of your skin. This can counteract the signs of aging; smoothing out visibility of wrinkles, helping to firm the skin and correc uneven skin tone. All of this makes retinoids the Gold Standard for targeting aging skin.
How long does it take to see results ?
About 3 months with regular use (twice a week) but using it more frequently does not mean better or faster results. On the contrary, it can slow down the whole process because of irritation and set you back in your overall progress.
What to expect? Good, the bad and the “uglies”
Retinol speeds up skin turnover and boosts collagen, but with that comes what is often called “the retinoid uglies”; the awkward and frankly sometimes hectic period when you first start using it.
For some people this can just be mild dryness, and flaking but for others can include purging (breakouts) or as in my own case intense dryness, peeling, angy red irritation that frankly made me what to chuck the tube straight into the bin.
Fortunately before doing that ditch, I did a deep dive into what I could do to salvage the situation and found what is known as the “the sandwich method” or Buffer method.
This involves applying a thin layer of a hydrating serum or moisturiser directly to your skin, waiting for it to dry, then applying the retinol and finishing it off with another layer of the serum. Doing this creates a protective barrier without blocking the active ingredients.
Supernaturals’ Serum Immortelle is already my “go to” product that I use two or three times a day, because I know exactly what the ingredients are in it ,so it was a logical first choice for me to try.
I also knew that when Tretinoin is breaking down your skin barrier you don’t want a suffocating cream that just sits on top, you need ingredients that actively repair and mimic your skin's own natural structure.
Serum Immortelle is full of deeply nourishing, anti-inflammatory African botanicals and it's lightweight enough to sink into your skin. I hoped that by providing that base layer of fatty acids, antioxidants and nourishing oils it would create a resilient and hydrated cushion for the Tretinoin and prep my skin to handle its potency.
The sandwich (Buffer) method
This is what I used to save not only my skin barrier but my whole tretinoin journey:
1.The Base Layer (Serum Immortelle)
After cleansing, while your face is still slightly damp, smooth on a few drops of Serum Immortelle. This will give a calming safety blanket and strengthen the barrier before the active ingredients arrive at the party.
2.The Wait:10–15 minutes.
I cannot stress this enough—patience is key! Applying Tret to damp skin makes it absorb way too fast, which is a one-way ticket to peel-city. Let the serum sink in until your face feels completely dry to the touch.
3.The Active:A pea-sized amount.
Take a tiny, pea-sized amount of Tretinoin and gently dab it all over, making sure to steer clear of the super delicate areas around your eyes and the corners of your mouth.
4.The Top Coat: ((Serum Immortelle)
Wait a few more minutes, then seal the deal with another layer of Serum Immortelle to lock all that goodness in so it doesn't evaporate while you sleep.
The Verdict
The difference was night and day (well more night 🙂seeing that is when one applies it). My skin’s tolerance for the Tretinoin doubled and instead of waking up to angry, tight peeling patches, my skin barrier felt calm and hydrated.
Using Serum Immortelle as the first layer meant I could finally see the benefits that I had been reading about. It took the dread out of my evening routine and while using tret is a jog rather than a sprint I am already seeing remarkable results and more importantly feel that its a path I can stick with.
Some additional do’s and don’ts
Don’t use tretinoin on damp skin. It increases the absorption, which is risky when you have no idea how your skin is going to react
Apply a pea size amount and spread it very thinly on your face avoiding areas close to the eyes and in the grooves of your nose. More doesn’t equal better results
Start on the lowest strength- low and slow to monitor how your skin is doing and limit to 1-2 nights a week for the first few weeks.
If you are going to use other products check their compatibility esp if they also contain retinol or exfoliants- particularly exfoliating acids like AHA and BHA.
It’s generally safe to use a product that contains Vitamin C; the two ingredients can work well together in a complementary way. However not at the same time. Use your tretinion or retinol in the evening and your Vitamin C in the morning.
Remember to include your neck and decolletage (chest area) too.
Sunscreen. Sunscreen. Sunscreen. Broadspectrum every morning because retinol increases your photo-sensitivy meaning that you are more likely to burn.
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I have been using this serum now for 2 years and can honestly say it is the best product I have ever used on my skin. I went from papery this skin to robust and glowing in about three months. I will never be without it.
Such an interesting solution to this issue